The distributor cap and rotor under the cap are very important aspects of the ignition system of your car. The spark plug wires are connected to the distributor cap and rotor rotates as the engine speed, a signal is sent to each spark plug wire passing through, sending spark to the engine cylinders. Eventually, distributor caps and rotors are worn during continuous use. The replacement of these parts is considered part of routine maintenance and is very easy in most vehicles task.

Things You’ll Need

• Craps and ratchet screwdriver
• Workshop Manual for your vehicle (optional)
• Distributor cap and rotor parts

Instructions

1. Open the hood. Locate the dealer. It can help to have a shop manual for your make and model of a car, but this is usually an easy part to find, as it has all the spark plug wires coming out of it and running to the spark plugs.
2. Remove the distributor cap without pulling wires off the spark plugs. You can remove the spark plug wires, if you wish, but make sure and label them, and the distributor cap itself with a marker and a piece of tape so that the firing order of the engine remains unchanged. The cover can be fixed in a couple of ways. Many covers have hinged clips attached to the distributor itself holding the cover. These can be popped by hand or with a flat head screwdriver. The lid can also be screwed on, in which case locate the bolts (or screws) and remove with a socket or screwdriver.
3. Remove the rotor located under the distributor cap. The rotor is a plastic component that slides on the distributor shaft. In many vehicles the rotor is removed simply by pulling up the shaft of the distributor. Most modern cars may have a small bolt or screw holding the rotor in place and must be removed before the rotor can be removed.
4. Slide the new rotor on the distributor shaft in the reverse of removal by pressing down on the shaft. The rotor will have a notch in it to ensure correct alignment with the distributor shaft. Reinstall bolt or screw holding the rotor in place if applicable.
5. Transfer the spark plug wires from the old distributor cap new cap one at a time to avoid mixing up the order of distribution. By removing the spark plug wires, pull up the base where they slide over the top and not the cable itself to avoid damage.
6. Reinstall the distributor cap in the same orientation as the old cap is installed. The lid only light in a way that allows clips or screws are properly tightened. Start the engine to make sure it is working properly and firing on all cylinders.

How to change rear brake pads on a Nissan Altima. Brake pads are an important part of the brake system of your Nissan Altima. They are the replaceable friction pads that squeeze the brake disc or drum when the brake is depressed. You should replace them before they wear out more than 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) or endangering the brake discs of your Altima.

You will need

• Blocks
• Cat
• Wheel nut wrench
• Suction bulb
• Allen wrench or hex head
• Tweezers
• New brake pads
• Silicone lubricant
• Brake Fluid

Instructions

Remove the old brake pads

1. Park your car on a level surface. If you own a car with gear lever, make sure the car is in neutral. Do not put the hand brake. Place blocks in front of the front so the car does not move while you work on it wheels.
2. Open the hood of your car and locate the master cylinder. If necessary, remove brake fluid until the level of the container is less than half. A good tool to do this is a suction bulb. Place the brake fluid in the plastic container and motor oil.
3. Raise the rear end of your car with a jack. Remove the rear wheel or rear assembly.
4. Remove the parking brake cable from the rear of the caliper. Use the pliers to remove the cable clamp (clamp mount).
5. Use the key tubular to remove the upper mounting bolt caliber. Utilizes a small elastic or wire hanger for hanging the calibrator in the wheel cavity. Do not let the caliper hang from the brake hose.
6. Remove the springs of the brake pad out of the caliper. Remove the brake caliper.

Install the new brake pads

1. Rotate the caliper piston in the direction of clockwise to retract into its cover. Apply thin layer of lubricant to the parts of the pads that contact the caliper.
2. Insert the brake pads, tacos and spring into the caliper. Slide the caliper into place and use the key tubular to adjust the retaining bolts 16-23 lb ft (22-31 Nm).
3. Replace the parking brake cable. Use the pliers to adjust the fastening clamp.
4. Replace the wheel assembly (tire). Lower the car to the ground.
5. Press the brake pedal a few times to seat the pads. Do it before you try to move your car.
6. Add fluid to the master cylinder container to replace what you have removed before removing the old brake pads.
7. Test the brake pads to brake gently when handling the first week after installing the new. Try not to slam on the brakes during brake test.

Tips and Warnings

• The master cylinder is a metal cylinder located behind the wheel in the coverage of metal that separates the engine of the car body. On the cylinder is a plastic container containing liquid to the brake system. When you work on the brakes, adjust the liquid level so that the container is full below half.
• Parking brakes are operated by a long steel wire running from the handle of the cockpit to the rear wheels. The parking brake cable is the cable that goes from the caliper support plate to the car body. The brake cable is very thick and covered with rubber. Be careful. The brake cable can be easily confused with the brake hose, which is a steel tube connected to the car body with a small rubber hose. Use tongs to remove the parking brake cable. This is held in place with retaining clips.
• The calibrator is alloyed iron piece arcuate, brake rotor attached. Usually found at the top rear brake rotor. The caliper bolts are located on the back of the gauge. Use an oil penetration in said back. Use it to loosen the bolts, if necessary.
• Be careful when using brake fluid. It is irritating to eyes and dangerous to ingest. Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake fluid. If liquid touches your eyes, clear and current applied immediately wash your eyes water for 15 minutes. If your eyes still irritated after washing them or swallow brake fluid, seek medical assistance immediately.
• Be careful when you manipulate used brake parts. Dust and dirt in these parts may contain asbestos fibers that can be dangerous to your health if inhaled.
• When you clean these parts, always use a damp cloth instead of air compressed, wire brushes, steel wool or anything else that could move the particles of dust and dirt. Get rid of any material you use to clean away dirt and dust and sealed in a waterproof container. For more information, visit the library or enter online to see the guidelines and procedures of the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA, for its acronym in English) and the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA, for its acronym in English) for handling and disposal of anything containing asbestos fibers.

There are several factors why we have to ask for an engine repair, such as poor fuel mix or lack of oil.

We’ve all had this situation, at least once in our life: we’re hurrying in the morning, we’re going to be late for a very important meeting, and the car’s happy engine sounds, vibrates, overheats, but does not start.

Of course if we have reached this situation is because we have not paid attention to the signals that the engine has been sending us for a long time, for an engine that is not working well can be detected by the irregular sound in the exhaust and Seen with the atypical vibration that it produces.

However, in this situation we have no choice but to request services engine repair, however, we must understand what the main reasons why the engine does not work properly, among those found are:

Problems with fuel mixing

The air intake may be blocked and there is insufficient oxygen to the fuel, or the fuel system may provide too much or too little fuel

Inconsistent compression

If the piston rings are worn, the cylinder has a hole, or the intake and exhaust valves are not properly sealed, the air-fuel mixture cannot be compressed and the combustion process will not work.

Spark plug failure

If we have a gasoline engine whose spark plug or the cable that feeds it, it will not generate a spark and, therefore, there will be no fuel ignition, requiring urgent assistance.

Lack of oil

If the engine has no oil, the piston will not be able to move freely from top to bottom in the cylinder.

Crankshaft wear

When the bearings that cause the crankshaft to rotate wear out, the engine cannot function.

Lack of battery power

If the battery has no charge, the engine will not be able to start the engine.

In addition to these problems, there are additional reasons that may affect the good performance of the engine, but no matter what the nature of the problem motorized important thing is a timely request engine repair.

Any mechanical failure in a car is essentially a waste of time and money, two disadvantages that only the foresight and good use of our vehicle can help reverse. However, what happens when an error that we thought was small and not worth asking professional help becomes two, three or more damages at a time? Pay attention to these five flaws that could cost you even the July or December bonus.

The head gasket

The engine of a car is not only the heart of our vehicle, but one of the most complex automotive elements due in large part to the number of parts that compose it. Among them, for example, the head gasket fulfills a very important function, as it has to withstand high temperatures and its holes are the bridge through which oil and water constantly passes. Its mounting, therefore, must be perfectly airtight.

So what happens when you overheat or when the engine, no longer coolant, still working? In that case, the seal is no longer hermetic because the temperature – which may become too high – ends up deforming it. The terrible thing about the matter is that it is often not enough to change this piece.

If we add to the replacement of the cylinder head bolts, the oil seals – and other joints – and a usually necessary grinding, the cost can be greatly increased. However, in certain cases the timing belt, service belt and even the water pump can also be affected, so that added to the workforce, it becomes a disaster for our economy.

Broken or worn distribution belt

An element also associated with the motor, and mentioned lines back, is the timing belt. The user familiar with the operation of his car knows that it is in charge of synchronizing the rotation of the crankshaft pulley with the camshaft sprocket, so that the valves open and close at the right time.

Well, well, when the strap breaks the timing is lost. What happens next is that the piston hits the valves and the valves become bent. Only the repair of this fault can cost an eye to the face in labor, so much so that it is one of those cases in which some would choose to buy another car. But as we said at the beginning of this note, foresight and timely observation can prevent this disaster.

This fault is associated with improper mounting of the belt, which may have occurred in an earlier revision or following its wear for a lifetime. Certain straps last longer than others, but apart from this, it is best to change it approximately every 80,000 km traveled. Although, in fact, not only the mileage matters, but the time of use, which’s recommended limit can be around three years.

Fuel pump faulty

More problematic for the cost itself of this gadget, a fuel pump damage is also a matter that can affect our economy. This part of the engine is responsible for accurately applying the correct pressure to the injectors at the indicated time. This piece is a precision instrument and works with very high pressures, which can range from 100 bar to 2,050 bar, according to the car brand.

The reasons associated with its malfunction may be the poor quality of the fuel used, excess water in the fuel, friction with metallic splinters, faults in the internal electrical system, etc. The cost of this implement can vary widely according to the brand of the vehicle, but it is not common that it falls from the S /. 1,000.

Clogged or worn nozzles

The obstruction of one of the injectors of our motor can even take us to change all. As all medium-sized auto knower insurance already know, these parts are in charge of supplying fuel to the engine permanently and very precisely, depending on the regime and load of the same.

The most common is that they break individually, but depending on the reason for the damage, two or more can be affected at the same time. This is an additional alert, as something on the circuit may be wrong. However, the breakdown of the injectors is usually related to poor fuel quality and metal chips or dust that may have clogged them. It is not common that they can be cleaned, but there are exceptions.

The individual replacement of the injectors is recommended only when it is only one affected. However, when it comes to two or more or if they have worn out by use time, it is best to replace them all at once so that their operation is properly balanced for the engine.

Turbocharged engines

This mechanical fault is reserved only for the owners of a car with turbocharged engine. Turbo breakdown of a supercharged propeller is probably one of the most expensive in the automotive market. This is due to the complexity of its structure and operation.

The turbo is composed of a turbine that is driven by the engine exhaust. On its axis, or center, is fixed a centrifugal compressor that takes air from the outside and, once it passes through a filter, it compresses to introduce it to a greater pressure in the motor. Failure of the turbo can occur due to manufacturing defects, due to the high engine speed, excessive temperature, lack of lubrication or impurities in the oil.

The device combines the only petrol injector that comes with the pressure regulator shutter and regulator switch shutter speed idling in a single set, constituting a compact formation of the mixture air- gasoline, which as stated is mounted on the intake manifold of the engine. The injector is installed in the center of the unit forming the mixture, the flow of gas being distributed in the area with the minimum cross-section of the air flow to the cylinders (where air flow rate is the maximum rate). It is done as a homogeneous fuel-air mixture, which is supplied to cylinders in the order they succeed ignition.

The injection pressure upstream of the injector is kept substantially constant by means of the pressure regulator, the excess fuel from the injector is returned by the pressure regulator to the tank.

Adjusting the amount of fuel injected per cycle, for different operating conditions of the engine, is based on the amount of intake air. In this regard, the air flow meter is mounted transducer that transmits information about airflow to the central electronic unit. Other sensors transmit information to correct quantity of fuel injected per cycle transient operation (acceleration, deceleration, enriching the mixture at full load or cold start, etc.). Filled with a lambda probe, Mono-Jetronic equipment is highly efficient in terms of reducing emissions of pollutants.

It is fitted into the exhaust manifold and is able to detect oxygen content in the exhaust gases, which did not participate in combustion. Oxygen signal from the transducer is transmitted to the central command and control unit. Depending on the size signal (proportional to the percentage of oxygen detected) unit changes the volume of petrol injection cycle. It is possible such a rigorous control of fuel consumption and emissions of pollutants produced.

To adjust the idle speed of the controller is provided.

It noted that the adjustment in closed loop using transducer sensitive only in a very limited variation around λ = 1 is only able to meet the effective treatment of flue gases, regardless of the manufacturing tolerances of engines equipped with this facility and those occurring in operation. However, closed-loop control with encoder Lambda cannot act only overlapped a basic control independently fine tuning individual operating in open loop that is added compensation dictated by the change in air density and because of changing parameters injector or engine during operation. Mono-Jetronic system designers have had three major categories of changes that can occur in operation:

• Changes in air density induced alteration (by changing altitude);
• Changes induced by sucking air through holes appeared in operation downstream obturator (false air), additional air shutter considered by the angular position and momentary and partial filling of these holes (e.g. due to “dirt” particles);
• Changes induced weakening of the magnetic parameters that can prolong injection injector.

Subject to those changes, “map features” is subdivided into sectors in which each of the three categories was decisive influences, as follows:

• The change in air density affects the whole area of ​​the folder of features and they will act on “multiplier” airflow;
• Changes in dosage air impoverishment “false” become significant only at speeds close to idling speed and the term is a term calculated nature of addition (not copying).
• Changes from one injection to the next (from one pulse to another) become apparent only at very short injection times, and the correction is all of “additional”.

This open-loop control is known as “adjustment variable mixture” and the principle is to change the duration of injection to obtain dosage stoichiometric whenever finds a deviation from the dosing medium prescribed by intervention of a variable. The variable is corrected by applying a weighting factor specific to a sector of the file characteristics. Variable adopted changes to “distance” operation (which manifests itself in levels of variable amplitude and magnitude of dosage increments superimposed variation imposed by adjusting closed loop lambda probe).

Depending on load and engine speed adjustment steps can take between 100 ms and 1000 ms, so that the effects of tolerances and pollution are imperceptible.

The lubrication in an engine is an aspect that must be cared for. One option is the multigrade oil. Do you know what it is and how it differs from the monograde?

Primary care is the engine of the car, so if you want the engine to work well, you need to change the oil in good time. But there are many things that are woven in relation to oils, in particular, the multigrade oil.

This automotive lubricant was created around 1950, and was made to work in regions where cold temperature variation – heat was very drastic.

Currently, the multigrade oil has been gradually shifting to monograde oil . However, these lubricants are still used in competitive engines and industrial equipment.

With “V” of viscosity

What is the difference of an oil multigrade with monograde pair? The keyword is the viscosity. The low viscosity of multigrade oils provides better engine protection from wear, especially at start-up.

The viscosity or density of the oil film depends on the temperature. This means that a low temperature oil should have a denser viscosity, to provide greater protection. While in full operation (at high temperatures) this thickness will decrease so that it flows more quickly throughout the engine.

The unknown of the W

The most frequent question about multigrade oils must be ‘what does the W mean?’ Well, that means consonant winter, and that as said before, this lubricant was created to work at very low temperatures. That’s the reason for that letter.

A common mistake with multigrade oils is how they read. For example, you have 20W 40 type oil. Some are likely to assume that 20W refers to the degree for low temperatures and 40 for high temperatures. This deduction is undeniable, but there are great differences with the actual explanation.

Actually, 20W indicates the ease with which the oil pump can ‘run by the engine oil’ at low temperatures. If the number accompanying the ‘W’ is lower, its viscosity will be better at startup.

The second term of the oil nomenclature, i.e. ’40’, indicates the actual viscosity of the oil when the engine is running. Once the car starts and the engine temperature reaches 100 ° C, the viscosity of the oil will work as a grade SAE40. This terminology describes the density at which the oil protects the engine.

To enjoy the performance and comfort of the car we drive, it is important that – periodically – to perform certain checks alone.

1) Visual Check tire is whenever we climb behind the wheel. If you see that something is wrong, you have to go in service to measure pressure. Usually the pressure ideal vehicle manufacturers recorded – depending on road speed – on a label affixed to the side of the driver’s door, in the glove compartment or on the lid of the tank. If we change the operating mode of the car (for example, if you drive mostly in town and on the highway is to circulate, pressure must be modified). Excessive tire wear or too little pressure in the wheel can lead to road events (blast wheels, brake difficulties, etc.) uneven wear of wheel alignment can mean deficiencies or malfunction of the braking system. Additionally, tire change is required attention (for example, if we feel small vibrations at high speeds probably were not balanced wheels; if you hear rattles, installation was done wrong or maybe the studs are not tight).

2) Check the car’s fluids is when the car is parked right place. To check the oil, remove the rod, wipe with a clean towel, then enter again. It must be between the “min” and “max”, close to the maximum. It is preferable that the engine is cold (and off course). If the oil level is low, make; but if the oil is “bad” (dark, soiled) should be changed. The oil should be changed depending on the season, if we chose multigrade oil because of foaming and viscosity can cause irreversible decrease in performance. Since I opened the hood to check the oil, we will track and brake fluid level and the cooling (if applicable): you only need to look at whether they are between “min” and “max”. Crossing in winter, and density should be measured coolant. If we do not measure what you have to go in service: a low level of antifreeze or improper density in the winter can be devastating for the engine.

Checking the windshield washing fluid for its quality is important. If you use summer liquid in the winter, we risk when we use this to put a layer of ice on the windshield.

3) Check windscreen wipers is simple: if they tend to scratch, blades or wiper blades should be replaced. In the latter case, consideration should be given compatibility with our car (must be the same size and clamping system).

4) Checking lights is very important both for our safety and for fines are high and are accompanied by withholding registration certificate. Even if you do not intend to ride at night, you never know when traffic conditions can cause us to delay. Check with the engine off positions, then raises handbrake, remove from the speed and the engine starts to check beam and high beam. If the car is recharged, the headlights must be set: otherwise, instead illuminate the roadway, eyes will light the sky or … other drivers.

5) Additional equipment: hand signals, hazard warning lights, horn, and check the heating system is very simple.

6) Check the battery – from a visual perspective – is how many times the hood rises. We recommend checking terminals: contact is firm and there are no traces of corrosion. The battery must not leak or rupture acid. If the battery is liquid and fell below the minimum level, add distilled water: today, less battery maintenance. If the car starts signs that hard, you should be measured battery. This requires a measuring device (voltmeter). Depending on its characteristics, usually with the engine must indicate over 11,5V, and with the engine running and the headlights on, over 14V. In the absence of a voltmeter, verification can be done in service.

7) Direction check in authorized garages. If you find that the wheel rotates – when the car is stopped, the ignition key, turn on 3/4, without giving the automatic – more than 15 degrees without the wheels moving, is a sign that the car should be taken into service for a steering system check. If, when the road is straight, it is found that the car pulls to the counter or the ditch, although the steering wheel is straight, check the tire pressure first. If this does not fix the problem, should be checked directly into a workshop.

8) The brake system check in authorized service. If you find that has increased during braking, if strange noises are heard whistles or braking or if indicators on the board relating to the brake light, is a sign that the car requires verification of this system.

9) The engine started must determine appearance on the exhaust pipe of a transparent or white smoke. If the smoke is black, adjustments are required; if smoke is blue, the engine consumes oil.

10) Check the trunk is important. You need to find the key to the wheel, jack, warning triangles, fire extinguisher, and first aid kit. A set of lights (one each) and a set of fuses are extremely useful. It is good to have a blanket or even from the idea that we only use a … picnic unpredictable! Ideal is to have a flashlight (or a lamp can be powered by battery) and small compressor wheels.

In winter, the trunk must find: a bag of sand, a shovel, snow chains, ice scrapers, and sprays for defrosting the windshield and doors.

The valves are one of the fundamental elements of a car engine. Your care must be continuous to prevent malfunction and wear.

In view of this, we introduce a simple guide to help you identify and solve some problems that often occur with valve engine of your car, from the seat until you are responsible for distributing gasoline:

• If the valve shows minimal wear on its seat with shallow mark, it can be used again without rectifying the seat.
• A shadow on the seat indicates that the valve was working poorly aligned and will have to be checked.
• Never reinstall a valve that shows too much wear on the seat or head.
• Carefully inspect the safety grooves of each valve, if they show any damage or wear, install a new valve.
• Do not use a valve that shows rust or dirt of any kind, this can cause or hide erosion or stinging.
• A malfunction may be due to the fact that the valves have adhered to the guides.

Also, make sure there are no problems with lubrication; there is no presence of abrasive material in contact with the engine or misalignment between the motor seat, guide and valve.

If you are the ones who give your car direct treatment, keep in mind some of these indications and if not, go to your trusted mechanic and ask him to explain the process to you.

Periodic reviews will maximize the durability of these tools essential for the proper functioning of ‘your iron’. So you know, look out for this guide and good luck!

The brakes system is one of the most important safety mechanisms with which drivers have. Remember that any unforeseen with your car stop in time is the difference between life and death. Therefore, to prevent this system will fail when you least expect we show four indicators that warn you that your constituents are failing and need to take the car to the workshop.

Metal sounds

A noise is the best indicator to know if something is wrong in the car. Now, if you turn on the brake you hear a high pitched noise in most cases this sound warns us that the wear indicator is rubbing against the disc or drum. But if you hear a rough chirping means the pads are so worn that when you step on the pedal is rubbing “metal against metal”.

Pull to one side

Brakes and the car pulls you to the left or right … Does it happen to you? It is likely that one caliper has not returned to its original position after braking and when we re-use it, the wheel presenting the fault is first actuated. Another cause that causes this defect is the clogged hoses that move the pads or shoes unevenly. Uneven wear of the pads also causes the carriage to pull to one side.

Vibrations

If your brakes do not have ABS, they should not vibrate when actuated. If they do, the disc or drum will almost certainly be tilted. These elements usually are usually tilted when exposed to high temperatures for an extended time. Now, you just take them to the wheel to rectify them and you still feel vibrations in the pedal, check if your tires need alignment and rocking.

The pedal sinks

If you have been depressing the brake pedal more recently to stop your car, it indicates that the pads or pads are excessively worn, you can also notice that the hydraulic system may leak. To discard the first, look between the beams of the ring and locate the pad, if at first sight you notice that the thickness is very thin go to a workshop. For the second, you can place a cardboard under the car and the next day to see if it has a stain of brake fluid.

One day, you’re driving your car down the road. Nothing bad seems to happen, when suddenly, a strange smoke comes out of the front of the vehicle. What are you afraid of? The temperature dial of the car goes up without stopping. You stop the vehicle, you get down, you open the hood and you see the engine of your car boil like an erupting volcano.

What happened? In this article, we list the reasons why a car can overheat and how to act in case you happen to a scene like the previous one.

Refrigeration system

The first thing to know is that any engine has a limit. Regardless of the fuel used or the vehicle’s production model, it can, at some point, stop working optimally, causing what we know colloquially as engine overheating.

Engine overheating is mainly caused by two reasons: damage to the various components of the cooling system of the vehicle or problems with the engine lubrication system.

The cooling system exists precisely to maintain the balance in the temperature levels in the engine (which essentially depends on the engine design, but in general must be between 80 and 100 ° C).

Only between 20 and 30 percent of the energy released from the fuel during the time of explosion in an engine becomes useful energy; the other 70 or 80 percent is almost lost as heat. The inner walls of the cylinder or jacket of a motor can reach temperatures around 800 ° C. Therefore, all engines require a cooling system to help dissipate that excess heat.

How does the cooling system work?

An engine can be cooled by water or air (depending on whether it is a car or a motorcycle). When it works by air cooling, the motor consists of dissipation fins that evacuate the heat from the motor and thus reduce its temperature. Bikes are the main vehicles that use this type of cooling, in addition to the boats (outboard motor).

Water or coolant are the elements most used to control the temperature of an engine and fulfills this function through a complex system composed of the following elements:

Radiator: radiator is a device that connects to the engine and performs the function of heat sink. A liquid is pumped into the engine, typically a mixture of water with alcohols with a high capacity to absorb heat. The idea is that the fluid circulates through the engine, absorbing the heat and then going to the radiator, so that it cools there. A leak can lead to engine overheating.

Hoses: they are responsible for transporting water or coolant enters and leaves the motor in order to cool it. Their breakage or poor condition are the most common causes of the temperature of a car to rise disproportionately.

Water pump: its purpose is to maintain the necessary circulation of the coolant. The service life of this element is very long and can only be damaged when the liquid deposits are left without this element.

Jar of deposit: the typical failure of this element is that the cap loses seal ability, making there the liquid from escaping.

Thermostat: if this valve, responsible for allowing the passage of coolant to the engine to absorb the heat generated in this, breaks down, can lead to several incidents: to not open and close properly, there may be an increase in fuel consumption and overheating of the system.

Cooling fan: without a good job of this element radiator may not receive enough air to reduce the temperature of the coolant stored there.

Consequences

If the engine runs above its optimum temperature, oil viscosity can be reduced, engine wear can increase and parts can be soldered by increasing temperature.

On the other hand, if the engine works below its optimum temperature, fuel consumption increases, as the engine needs a specific temperature necessary for its proper operation. Engine parts can also wear out prematurely, as they are designed to dilate by the effect of heat to a certain size. In addition, the power is reduced by not having the right conditions for a correct combustion.

Any damage to one of these components can cause the vehicle to overheat. That is why it is important that you follow the following recommendations to avoid further damage to the engine and its different components (from breakage and damage to parts to total engine failure).

Periodically reviews the status of the belts, coolant, leakage points and patches or hose coupling to the engine as they may be signs of rust (sign that the liquid is filtered at this point).

Check that the fan is activated when the car is turned on.

If smoke comes out, stop the vehicle, do not open the coolant reservoir jar as you can burn yourself. Check carefully where the leak occurs and call for an assistance vehicle to assist you in this situation.

It is not advisable to put water or coolant to the tank when it is hot, because at that moment there is pressure on this element and you can burn it. Never move the car when the vehicle presents a failure in its cooling.

Staying too long with the vehicle on and stopping may cause engine overheating. If you’re in a traffic jam and you must stay long in it, it is better to turn off the car.